Santiago

Arriving in Santiago was nothing short of amazing!  For over 1200 years throughout history, thousands of pilgrims have made the same trip, and now I know why.  The feelings of humility, pride, accomplishment and gratefulness all came together.

In the square, where the huge cathedral sits, an American flag was waving out of respect for my accomplishment.  At the mass, the priest announced the pilgrim woman from the United States who began in St. Jean Pied De Port in France and made safe passage.   Admitedly, I had a lump in my throat and my eyes watered from humility.

The trek was an incredible gift which I will never forget.  I had learned from others in the past, but this journey made it very evident that my soul had to feel the experiences; I had to own them and really feel them deep down to understand their meaning, in short, they had to be mine.  You can be inspired by others, but that is not intrinsically you.  Just as mentors can’t give you the answers; they can provide guidance, however, in the end it is only you and the strength of your inner self which provides the answers to your questions.  They are there waiting for you.

The road to Santiago is just as life itself.  It has no end; when you arrive you realize you have to keep going and walking towards your inner self, others and God.  

There is a magical energy which exists on the trail.  Whether it be a directional cross road of confusion where a window shutter flies open with a 90 year old woman pointing in the direction for you to follow or the other pilgrims you meet along the way sharing their most intimate stories or simply the beauty of nature; there is one thing I am certain of, the mystery will live on forever because of the incredible energy which exists along its dust and this is why people will continue to walk it for thousands of years to follow.

It will take time to really ingest all that went on physically, emotionally, intellectually as well as spiritually and will really only be finished when life as I know it today comes to an end.

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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Calluses of Life

After walking almost 500 miles and within ¨spitting distance¨ of  my destination, many of the people I have come across have feet covered in blisters and everyone has calluses.  It has been a fascinating road, a long road which has required persistence.  It has been a road filled with growth on every level: the physical, emotional, intellectual as well as the spiritual.

Many people that I began my trek with are no longer walking for various reasons, most being from injury of some type or just giving up.  The road is hard, just as life is at times.  We all develop calluses at one point or another.  We all become hardened to life.  Just as the weary pilgrim has calluses on the feet by now, many have calluses on the heart after a long trek through life.

No doubt, the challenges of life can sometimes become so painful that we form calluses to protect ourselves.  If we harden our heart we can no longer feel the pain, the area becomes numb.

The humility of being a pilgrim on this road brings life to its simplest form. The road invites you to begin life again, lifting the traveler from the numbing familiarity of everyday life by creating new circumstances each and every day that must be faced.  On the road, every day has a new beginning, yesterday is the past and in order to adapt and continue on you must start with a new slate in order to reach the goal.

Whether from physical or emotional pain, the scarring and calluses are the same.  Eventually the hurt creates the callus that stops us from feeling.  Feeling is an emotion of life that separates living from existing.  Live the gift of life……..

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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Food For Thought

In observing an entire nation for one month now, by foot, I have had the opportunity to compare the overall health of  Americans as compared to the Spaniards.

It is quickly apparent that obesity is not an epidemic as it is in the states.  Several factors seem to be key.  Extremely noticeable is that I have seen only 3 fast food restaurants in the entire country and I have been in major cities, not just small remote villages.  I went into a Burger King in Leon just to get an idea and the Whopper Meal was the equivalent to about $7.50 in US dollars.  Much more expensive then in the states.  Interestingly enough there were very few customers.  In Spain eating is a cultural exchange between people and I´d go as far as to say an art form.  Eating is slow, very slow, over several hours.  Remembering that it takes your brain 20 minutes to signal your full is definitely something to consider.  The word hurry is not in the dictionary here!

The beverages of choice are bottled water or wine.  Very little soda is consumed and there are no free refills.  The glasses are small as well as the plate size.  Several courses are part of a complete meal, however the portions are what we in the US called average about 25 years ago.  You never see ¨biggie sizes¨ which we love in the states!

Lastly you see everyone regardless of age walking.  Walking and strolling with friends and relatives morning, noon and night.

Simple ideas as food for thought………..

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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Mother Nature

Yesterday morning I left the alberque,  a very primitive refuge available to ¨pilgrims¨ for sleeping, and low and behold it was snowing!  Snowing in May in Spain.  The natives were just as surprised as I was to say the least.

Thankfully, I hadn´t gotten rid of my long johns as I was told to, in hopes of getting rid of some weight in my back pack.  So, out came my gloves, long johns and rain suit which I hadn´t  used since the Pyrenee´s Mountains,  the last time I had seen snow.  Climbing the Pyrenee´s Mountains now seemed like a lifetime ago.  I had actually been told that just five days before I was crossing them a man was airlifted out due to the ferocious snow storm.

Mother nature is amazing, and the lesson is that life imitates nature, not the reverse.  We are not as in ¨charge¨ as we would like to believe!  So much of my journey has been a reflection of nature.  We really would love to believe that we are very important, but in reality we are mere puppets of a much bigger mystery.

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Passion Runs Deep

Today, as the journey continues and the miles accumulate, the body physically feels the demands which have been placed on it.   I have had moments of fantasy that included someone carrying my 21 pound back pack for me, or hiring a mule to carry my necessary personal belongings.

At some point each day I think about how much further I have to go, and have a talk with myself.  The old pep talk includes the fact that the majority of the trek has been completed and just one step at a time will get me there!

Just at that moment I come upon a elderly woman, obviously crippled with osteoporosis as well as osteoarthritis.  She is so hunched over that she actually looks like a candy cane.  She is traveling alone and carrying a tree branch with a leaf on top as her walking stick;  she looks up and and has the most brilliant smile I have seen on the trail.  We speak for a moment and I find out she is an 82 year old woman traveling alone from Ireland and that this is her sixth time making this journey.

What an incredible woman and what passion she displays drives my adrenaline and my body 10 more kilometers where I come across a stone cross from the thirteenth century with Mary holding Jesus and just across the street is a mother sheep nursing her tiny little baby……passion is all around me and I dig down and feel it to keep going.

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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Am I in Austria Dorothy?

Sorry it has been a few days since my last posting.  In some remote villages the internet is just not available, and when and if I do have it, I have 15 minutes at best to write.  

But, this evening, I must share with you.  I am in a gorgeous 300 year old stone farm house filled with antiques, truly a very romantic setting where you can just feel the warmth.  Not to my surprise about an hour or so later a large group of Austrians came in and began a guitar sing along, while although in another language, I know every song…….tonight I am with the Von Trapp singers!!! 

Time to get back to the singing…..

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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It´s A Small World

I have now been traveling for almost three weeks and observation has shown me that while so much of the world is different, so much is really the same.

The smells that are etched in my brain from wonderful times in my life have somehow popped up along the road. The same flora and fauna which ring in spring to me at home are visible and bring a smile to my face. Soothing similar sounds and the full moon last night allow me to recall wonderful moments of the past and bring back great memories.

The first observation to this theory was definitely found by watching the behavior of dogs. Dogs have been plentiful. It was clear that they could be placed anywhere in the world and would not judge you or ask to see your passport before sizing you up and becoming your best friend and companion. It is amazing how that unconditional love they offer can be brought out so easily, with just a little love and affection.

People on the other hand try to cover up who they really are, while dogs are just who they are.

If we could just figure out how to be who we really are, not some Hollywood personality, model or rock star, but who we are, life would be so simple.

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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Trust

Today I left the Alberque at 6.30 am and it was raining and dark, very dark.  My body was ready to move,  so I figured I might as well get an early start.  It was so early that I was unable to read the signs for the trail unless I was literally right up on top of them.  About 20 minutes into the walk, I heard a cow bell but didn’t see any cow.  A few paces later, there was literally a flock of about 200 sheep, hence the bell.  They just stood at the fence and probably wondered why this crazy American woman was up and moving so early in the dark!

As the sky began to illuminate the color changed a bit but, it was definitely not the sunrise on the mountain I had hoped for.  The beauty was still present, and I videotaped the village below from where I spent the night; it was truly a magnificent sight.  I walked about three miles and good thing  the sky was brighter because I came to an intersection, and both ways were marked as the correct way to go…….there was an Italian man asking me which way I was headed with his hands……I motioned to the left and he said with his hands, mind you….why?  I replied because I could see a village and that was a village I had read about, so it must be on the route.  He said with obvious disgust…..he was going the other way, and that he was right.  I thought well, ok,  but no reason to get upset that I do not want to follow you…….

About an hour later, and much talking myself into trusting my judgment…..guess what?  I was indeed correct, and it sure felt good.  What felt the best was not that I was right and he was wrong, but that I trusted myself.  In life it is you in the beginning and you in the end, and the sooner you learn to trust yourself the easier life becomes.

Before you can begin to trust others, you must trust yourself.

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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Courage

Yesterday I awoke, after two tough days, to the church bells ringing in the small village and began doing what I do everyday on this journey: eat, walk, and sleep.  The in between time is made up of seven or eight hours of thinking.  Thinking about the past, the present and the future.

Within a half hour of setting out, I knew it would be a great day…..a rainbow was right in front of the snow topped mountains.  What a sight to behold!

After 23 kilometers it was time to find a place to eat and sleep.  What I found was amazing, an eleventh century church where I could sleep in the attic along with other guests, on the floor, on top of a mattress;  imagine that sight.  It was all stone and one of the warmest places I had ever experienced.  It was run by volunteers who only asked for a donation of whatever you could give.  There was sweat equity involved where we all pitched in together to make dinner and clean up.  It was a Thanksgiving of people you had never met before!

Before dinner, I was invited to attend a short mass in the little chapel adjacent to the church, and was glad I did.  The priest spoke about having three meetings on the journey.

First:  meeting yourself; and believe me, when you are on the road alone, you sure do.  Second: meeting other people along the way, and that alone is so interesting to hear the stories of others.  Third: is to meet God.  The priest went on to say that it takes courage because, as he said, you will never ever be the same again after this……..with only eleven days under my belt, I can tell you that there is so much truth in the courage to never be the same again.

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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The Rain In Spain Falls…….

Ahhhh, so I had 9 days of great weather….some brutally hot and some brutally cold, but today  cold rain and strong winds were in order; time to break out the rain suit!

I managed 23 kilometers by just pressing ahead, saying ¨I will do this.¨  A total of almost 200 km to date!

Three full days of nothing but wine vineyards….and now I know why wine is so inexpensive here.  I must say, the French have nothing on the Spanish when it comes to wine.  It is so abundant that it is literally cheaper than water, and very good, I might add.

The thought of the day is: where there is sun there is also a shadow…and that is life……..

With Gratitude,

Dr. Evelyn Higgins

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